Asparagus, by Claire Criscuolo
Mother Nature was kind to us this winter, bringing mild
temperatures throughout most of the season, and as a result
of her generosity, we have fresh asparagus earlier than
usual - Right now. It’s growing in the fields at Bishops’
Orchards in Guilford. Asparagus is pretty magical in the way
it grows. It grows from crowns and it grows incredibly
fast, and it requires picking several times a day. If you
hang out in the fields long enough, you can almost watch it
grow.
A member of the lily family, asparagus contains a good
amount of Vitamin A, and reasonable amounts of iron and
Vitamins B and C. When buying, look for firm, bright green
stalks and firm tips. Buy only what you plan to use within a
few days for maximum freshness and keep your asparagus
stored in the refrigerator, wrapped in a kitchen towel. Wash
the stalks and tips well before cooking to remove any grit
as they are grown in sandy soil. I prefer the thick
asparagus although many people like the thin ones, it’s
really just personal preference. The stalks grow thicker as
the plant matures, so younger plants will produce thin
stalks and more mature plants will produce thicker ones. I
don’t usually peel my asparagus unless the skin looks
fibrous or a little dry, and I just cut or snap off the
tough bottom stem, about an inch, or more if the stem looks
tough and dry.
Asparagus is a most versatile vegetable and you can prepare
it by blanching or broiling, sauteing, or braising,
grilling, or roasting. Asparagus are so flavorful, they
don’t need a lot of embellishments. Try just rubbing the
stalks and tips with a little extra virgin olive oil then
roast them on a parchment paper lined cookie sheet in a 450
degree oven for about 7-10 minutes until they are just
barely tender, and serve them alone or with a dip for a
lovely side dish or appetizer. Celebrate the first asparagus
of the season with a Spring Asparagus Risotto or Cream of
Tomato and Asparagus Soup. Asparagus is a favorite vegetable
in our family and I hope you’ll enjoy it as the first local
vegetable of the season. And, as the saying goes, it’s just
the beginning of more good things to come. Happy Spring!
Spring Asparagus Risotto, by Chef Claire Criscuolo, RN
Serves 6
7 Cups water
3 Ribs organic celery, cut into ½ inch slices,
include leaves
2 Tablespoons organic butter or organic vegan
“butter” spread
1 Spring onion, finely chopped
sea salt and pepper
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 Organic shallots, finely chopped
1 Large bunch local asparagus (about 1 and 1/4
pounds), tough stems trimmed and discarded, remaining stem
and tips cut into ½ pieces
2 ½ Cups Arborio rice
3-4 Tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
Measure the water into a medium pot. Add the celery, butter,
onion, and a little salt and pepper to taste. Cover and
bring to a boil over high heat. When it reaches a boil,
reduce the heat to medium and cook, covered, at a medium
boil for about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally until the
celery is barely tender. Turn off the heat, but leave the
pot, covered on the hot stove top. Taste the broth for
seasonings.
Heat the olive oil in a large, skillet over medium-low heat.
Add the shallots and half of the asparagus. Sprinkle with a
little salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally for
about 5 minutes, or until the shallots and asparagus are
softened. Add the Arborio rice. Stir well to coat with the
oil. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add 1 cup of
the broth. Stir well to combine. Cook, stirring constantly,
for about 2 minutes, until the rice absorbs the broth. Stir
in the remaining asparagus. Add another ½ cup of the broth.
Cook, stirring constantly, for about 2 minutes, or until the
rice absorbs the broth. Continue adding the remaining broth,
½ cup at a time, stirring continuously for 2 minutes after
each addition, or until the broth is absorbed into the rice.
Taste for doneness. The risotto should be barely tender,
thick, and creamy when it is done. Stir in the cheese. Taste
for seasonings.
Cream of Tomato and Asparagus Soup, by Chef Claire Criscuolo,
RN
Serves 8
3 Tablespoons organic butter
2 Medium spring onions, coarsely chopped
4 Cloves organic garlic, coarsely chopped
2 Organic shallots, thinly sliced
1 Large bunch local asparagus, tough stems trimmed,
remaining stems and tips cut into 1/4 inch slices
sea salt and pepper
1 35 ounce can San Marzano tomatoes in juice, squeezed
with your hands
4 Cups water
2 Bay leaves
1 Quart organic half and half or organic whole milk
1 Tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon
1 Pinch nutmeg
Place the butter, onion, garlic, shallots, and asparagus in
a 6 quart pot over medium heat. Sprinkle with sea salt and
pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally for about 7-10 minutes,
until the vegetables are softened. Add the tomatoes, water,
and bay leaves. Cover, raise the heat to high and bring to a
boil. When it reaches a boil, reduce the heat to medium and
cook, covered, at a medium boil for about 30 minutes,
stirring occasionally until the asparagus if tender-soft.
Gradually stir in the half and half, the tarragon, and
nutmeg. Continue cooking for about 5 minutes, stirring
frequently until heated through. Taste for seasonings.